If you want the "runway to streets" in perfection, these are:
Outside Gareth Pugh
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Outside Maison Martin Margiela
Outside Gareth Pugh
From Sartorialist
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Paris S/S 09: Sophia Kokosalaki
Many would relate "romantic" with something that Valentino Garavani would come up with, but to me, romance does comes in many different forms.
And Sophia Kokosalaki designs are empitomizing that. Her creations are usually ultra feminine, yet, has a weighty amount of attitude and brawniness in them.
With a more oriental inspired show this season; golden armor plates, metallic, Kokosalaki's indeed the best when it comes to textures. But what's weakening her designs would have to be her colour combinations and coordinations, which is something that always happens for her spring collections.
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And Sophia Kokosalaki designs are empitomizing that. Her creations are usually ultra feminine, yet, has a weighty amount of attitude and brawniness in them.
With a more oriental inspired show this season; golden armor plates, metallic, Kokosalaki's indeed the best when it comes to textures. But what's weakening her designs would have to be her colour combinations and coordinations, which is something that always happens for her spring collections.
Nonetheless, it's still a collection with amazing pieces that celebrities would mindlessly trying to grab hold of them, especially the short dresses.
Paris S/S 09: Comme des Garcons
What an embarrassment to mistakenly mix up whether it's AnnD or CDG that collaborated with H&M, and worse, I blogged about it here!
But thanks to Vogueite that reminded me! So from now on, I'll try not to blog at the wee hours! HAHA!
Back to the point, Rei Kawakubo this season's feeling extremely dark. Her focus seems to be on the texture, nothing else, which is kind of surprising for me as her styling's always very much the other main attraction.
Mostly, from the collection, are dresses with her individual textural statement. There's soccer ball patchings, to feather-like, to embroideries, to quilted.
But there are some of the more wearable pieces peeping out from the show like the leather jackets/blazers, skirts, trousers and obviously, the shoes. But are these pieces as statement grounding as her texture? I think it's subjective.
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But thanks to Vogueite that reminded me! So from now on, I'll try not to blog at the wee hours! HAHA!
Back to the point, Rei Kawakubo this season's feeling extremely dark. Her focus seems to be on the texture, nothing else, which is kind of surprising for me as her styling's always very much the other main attraction.
Mostly, from the collection, are dresses with her individual textural statement. There's soccer ball patchings, to feather-like, to embroideries, to quilted.
But there are some of the more wearable pieces peeping out from the show like the leather jackets/blazers, skirts, trousers and obviously, the shoes. But are these pieces as statement grounding as her texture? I think it's subjective.
Paris S/S 09: TAO
Tao Kurihara, like Rei and Junya, never fails to deliver their dramatic and wild creations. And what I really like about all of their shows, including Comme des Garcons (which I'll post it later), is that they are all "packaged" in a theme to better show the audience their specific inspirations at that season.
This season, TAO came up with a mix of jockey+girlish with the opening of military inspired blouses paired and the closing of an array of floral prints, which are mostly paired with tight trousers/leggings to give off the archetypal jockey look. A much swift from her previous season as this season is more uniformed and smart, though there's her always favourite play with extreme girly elements.
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This season, TAO came up with a mix of jockey+girlish with the opening of military inspired blouses paired and the closing of an array of floral prints, which are mostly paired with tight trousers/leggings to give off the archetypal jockey look. A much swift from her previous season as this season is more uniformed and smart, though there's her always favourite play with extreme girly elements.
To top off with the theme, she added tall top hats and her always favourite, chiffon wide skirts.
Paris S/S 09:Ann Demeulemeester
For both menswear and womenswear, one of the designer that I'm also excited about would have to be Ann Demeulemeester. Her indie and rock influenced designs always look so cool.
But somehow, to me, this season seems to be lacking of an obvious theme which makes the imagination rickety and liquid.
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But somehow, to me, this season seems to be lacking of an obvious theme which makes the imagination rickety and liquid.
Yes, though, I'm lusting every single piece from the show, especially the orange draping dresses. Superbly gorgeous.
But the last group of pieces with those statement necklace does remind me too much of Givenchy. So...
Paris S/S 09: Sharon Wauchob
As feminine as ever, Sharon Wauchob this season found the perfect mix with artistic and wearability.
With minimal colours as usual, Wauchob had her focus on the details and textures of the pieces. With heavy use of the sheer fabrics draping technique, the dresses are very elegant yet had this slight rock edge emitting along.
How genius those feather-like skirts with pockets are?! Admit it, pockets adds in so much points up in functionality wise no?
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With minimal colours as usual, Wauchob had her focus on the details and textures of the pieces. With heavy use of the sheer fabrics draping technique, the dresses are very elegant yet had this slight rock edge emitting along.
How genius those feather-like skirts with pockets are?! Admit it, pockets adds in so much points up in functionality wise no?
Paris S/S 09: Junya Watanabe
I would have to say that one of the designer with the most creative mind would have to be Junya Watanabe. I've notice that not a single one of his show would repeat something from his previous show.
This season, it's all about garden. Literally.
Presentation aside, I would have to say that the "bringing back the denim" theme is very brave. Karl Lagerfeld did it for Chanel SS08, but failed. And worst, these are long denim skirts, with chiffon hem. I really don't know how things will go, but for now, I'm still looking at them as excruciating tacky.
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This season, it's all about garden. Literally.
Presentation aside, I would have to say that the "bringing back the denim" theme is very brave. Karl Lagerfeld did it for Chanel SS08, but failed. And worst, these are long denim skirts, with chiffon hem. I really don't know how things will go, but for now, I'm still looking at them as excruciating tacky.But there are still pieces which I loved like the beige blazers and the shoes.
Paris S/S 09: Vivienne Westwood
Now, fashion punk aunt Vivienne Westwood would never stop doing what she has always been known for, boldness.
For this season, Vivienne Westwood brings in sexy in a direct way, which is something fresh from her. More tight silhouettes showing more skin, but she still demands models to show them off in the always mischievous way.
The shoes are still one of the main focus of the show with loose leather straps and the similar pirate boots.
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For this season, Vivienne Westwood brings in sexy in a direct way, which is something fresh from her. More tight silhouettes showing more skin, but she still demands models to show them off in the always mischievous way.
The shoes are still one of the main focus of the show with loose leather straps and the similar pirate boots.
For the second half, I was quite surprised to see some gowns and dresses from the 6th collage that Georgina Chapman would come up with for Marchesa.- And as usual, the closing of the show's always stunning, with loads of tough fabrics drapping amorphously on the models.
Paris S/S 09: Antonio Berardi
I've always been a loyal fan toward Antonio Berardi. Besides being respected in the fashion industry, his creations are always one of the best and favourites for me season after season. Ultra feminine with twists that still managed to look very sophisticated.
But this season, I'm very VERY much disappointed. The show opened up with colour trends like fuchsia and ocean blue in minimal cuts and silhouettes. This, is already enough for me to be disappointed. Trends and minimal just AREN'T Berardi!
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But this season, I'm very VERY much disappointed. The show opened up with colour trends like fuchsia and ocean blue in minimal cuts and silhouettes. This, is already enough for me to be disappointed. Trends and minimal just AREN'T Berardi!
But as the show progressed, he slightly found his way back. Intricate prints and embroideries starts to surface from the second half of the show. But still, I'm only able to pathetically find 3 pieces from the collection which I like, which are the last group of white dresses with elaborated jutted details.
And also, what's really missing from the show would have to be the dramatic closing which he ALWAYS like to have.
Dear god... I really hate to add Berardi into "The list of disappointment" along with Galliano for Dior, Alessandro Dell'Acqua for Malo and Zac posen.
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